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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.